Chess Pies

Salt Honey Pie by Four and Twenty Blackbirds - photo by Joshua Kristal

I don't bake much (see, e.g., last weekend's tragic chia-seed-chocolate cake incident). But the recent onslaught of one particular southern dessert has made me rethink my anti-baking position.

Chess pies, alternately known as vinegar pies, are gooey concoctions made from some combination of eggs, butter, sugar, vanilla, cornmeal or corn syrup, and sometimes vinegar to cut the sweetness. The result can be likened to the delicious molasses sludge that holds together a pecan pie.

Mmm. Sludge.

Several New York spots have been riffing on this theme lately, adding elements both sweet and savory to the classic. Here are two of my more remarkable findings, alongside their recipes (which, please note, I have not yet ventured to vet).

Salt Honey Pie
by Four and Twenty Blackbirds, Gowanus, Brooklyn 

Yes, it's as amazing as it sounds, salt-freaks.

Preheat oven to 350F.
Have prepared one pre-baked pie shell of your choice.

For filling:
1/2 cup butter melted
3/4 cup white sugar
2 Tbsp white cornmeal
1/4 tsp salt
3/4 cup honey
3 eggs
1/2 cup cream
2 tsp white vinegar
1 tsp vanilla paste
1 or 2 Tbsp flake sea salt for finishing (Maldon is a good choice)
–
All of the mixing can be done by hand, or with an electric mixer. Melt butter and combine with the sugar, salt and cornmeal to make a thick paste.  Add the honey, vanilla and vinegar and mix together.  Fold in the eggs, add the cream and blend.

Pour the filling into a pre-baked pie shell and bake at 350 F for 45 to 60 minutes. The filling will puff up like a marshmallow and the center will be just slightly wobbly.

Once cooled (at least one hour), finish with a sprinkling of flake sea salt. Slice and serve with freshly whipped cream.

Makes one 9-inch custard pie.

Crack Pie
 by Momofuku Milk Bar, East Village

This recipe was adapted from Momofuku's by the LA Times. I suggest using a pre-baked pie crust, but Momofuku's is made with fresh with crumbled cookies. It is, quite simply, what its name implies.

Preheat oven to 350F.
Have prepared two pre-baked pie shells of your choice.

For filling:
1 1/2 cups (10 1/2 ounces) sugar
3/4 cup plus a scant 3 tablespoons (7 ounces) light brown sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/3 cup plus 1 teaspoon (3/4 ounce) milk powder
1 cup (2 sticks) butter, melted
3/4 cup plus a scant 2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
8 egg yolks
Powdered sugar, garnish
–
Whisk together the sugar, brown sugar, salt and milk powder.  Whisk in the melted butter, then whisk in the heavy cream and vanilla. Gently whisk in the egg yolks, being careful not to add too much air. Divide the filling evenly between the 2 prepared pie shells.
 
Bake the pies, one at a time, for 15 minutes, then reduce the heat to 325 degrees and bake until the filling is slightly jiggly and golden brown (similar to a pecan pie), about 10 minutes. Remove the pies and cool on a rack.

Refidgerate the cooled pies until well chilled. The pies are meant to be served cold, and the filling will be gooey. Dust with powdered sugar before serving.