Guatelama!

Update: winter blues much relieved by a recent journey to Guatemala! This is truly one of Latin America's most underrated countries.

Market ladies, selling fresh chicken

Like so many places, it's poor but vibrant. The country has struggled against some intense odds over the course of its history, from repeated Spanish slaughters of the Mayans - from whom most Guatemalans are descended - to a bloody political movement suppression spanning the 1960s, 70s and 80s. (It was only in the last decade that the country has seen some real peace, said my taxi driver as I first rolled into town.) And although the country is still prone to crime, the Guatemalans I met were warm, friendly and generous.

That brings me to the food. Central American food is not known for being, um, refined - in fact, it's mainly grilled or fried chicken, beans, and  hand-patted tortillas. But, as usual, a little digging yielded some gems.

First, the fruit: There's a bustling - though admittedly environmentally unfriendly - trade in tropical fruit from the Pacific Slope region up to the capital and the touristy lake region, where I was staying. Gorgeous fruit! I'm a tropical girl, so the small, sweet, black-spotted mangoes were a personal favorite. (Guatemalans are also crazy for smoothies, which they call liquados, a nice change of pace so long as you stay away from those made with tap water.) Avocados grow like weeds in most of the country, so you can expect truly fine guac on everything.

Next, the beans: My travel buddy and I engaged in much debate about the incredible, rich, sticky black beans that accompanied every typico breakfast we ate. I have a fantastic - and very secret! - family recipe for frijoles negros, but there was something about those Guatemalan beans that defied my culinary understanding. Delightful, very cheap, and totally ubiquitous.

Desajuno typico - breakfast!

Finally, the wrapped-things: Tamales (red and black), tamalitos (tamales, but tiny), paches and chuchitos. All are filled with varying quantities of sauces and meats, bundled in corn husks or giant banana leaves, steamed and sold in every market in town. We took these chuchitos along on a hike up a 10,000-foot volcano.

And, because the scenery was every bit as inspiring as the food, a parting shot:

Our view - Jaibailito de Atitlan

Now go, buy your ticket!