A chef off the beaten path

A few weekends ago, I had the pleasure of meeting (and being fed by) one of New York's most mysterious, off-beat chefs, Anne Apparu!

Mobile home cooking

As sheisfrench.com points out, Anne's catering operation, the 18th restaurant, is a bohemian and unpretentious affair (it doesn't even boast a website). Anne swaps locations every 18th of the month - cooking from bars, apartments, art spaces and the like - so the theme, flavors and atmosphere of her monthly meals are constantly changing.

Dishing it out, in costume

I met Anne as she spooned a gorgeous chicken tagine and harissa mashed potatoes at Greenpoint's Veronica's Social Club to the strains of Algerian raï music. She was as warm and welcoming as her food.

Anne has a solid cult following, having cut her teeth in the hipster culinary scene by catering sought-after themed parties under the guise of the venerable Chop Shop - which received much trend piece press. I guess this is why I find her low-key vibe so refreshing. After all, in this age of gourmet food trucks and "pop up restaurants," Anne's graceful mystery could easily turn-cooler-than-thou. And it most definitely hasn't!

To contact Anne and receive monthly emails from 18th restaurant, write to the18threstaurant@gmail.com. But don't tell her I sent ya.