Leave it to NYC ...

... to make humble Mexican street food into an exclusive, VIP-only engagement.

Since moving to New York eight years ago, I've been on the hunt for authentic Mexican. We're a city that does all sorts of Latin food really well - especially Dominican and Puerto Rican. But somehow cheap, simple, fresh Mex or Tex-Mex seems to elude New York, as we continue to smother our dishes in bland red pastes and nondescript melted cheese. Yuck.

Having heard good things about La Esquina, on the corner of Kenmare and Lafayette, I headed there for a strong margarita and some taquitos. The cafe is set apart from the "taqueria", which is the highly visible neon diner many New Yorkers will recognize. But both locales (as well as the thumping, reservation-only basserie in the basement) serve the tacos we were after.

La Esquina taqueria

An order of the grilled fish tacos came smothered in salsa verde, and the daily special - braised ancho-chile brisket tacos - were topped with pickled onions and jalepenos that were the stars of the entire meal. Both were tasty, but I suspect could not hold a candle to $2 street tacos in Austin or L.A. 

And I'd be remiss if I didn't mention that the service and ambiance were completely inappropriate for fun, messy peasant food. When will New Yorkers learn to turn up the lights, open the windows and have fun with their food? One more meal attended by a sad waif of a waitress and underpinned by thumping ambient electronic bass and I might just keel over.

End rant.

 Braised brisket tacos at La Esquina.