A Hedonist's Guide to the Five Senses

Friday, June 24, 2011

Three perfect days in Chicago

On a flight home last weekend, a friend and I were leafing through a prosaic airline rag when we stumbled upon an article entitled "Three perfect days in Chicago".

Having just spent - exactly - three days in Chicago, we thumbed through to see how we had done.

The result? We win! Spending our student years in Chicago gave us the advantage of friends on the inside, not to mention a relatively nuanced understanding of that wonderful city.  Below is my list of things to do during a perfect (summer) weekend in Chicago.




1. See some baseball. Seriously. Even if you're not a fan, there is no friendlier,  more energetic place to spend a warm Friday afternoon than Wrigley Field. Drink watery beer and banter with the rabid Cubs fans, then head to the drunken, frat-tastic Wrigleyville neighborhood for post-game beers. It's shockingly fun.




2. Starve yourself, then eat pizza! While I may be drummed out of New York for saying this, there is nothing in the world like a 1,500-calorie slice of deep-dish from Lou Malnati's (don't forget to make a reservation!), or the Giordano's chain. The latter recently filed for bankruptcy, incidentally, so get it while you can.




3. Splurge on comedy. This has never been my entertainment of choice, but in Chicago, love of sketch and standup is infectious. A friend tapped into the city's entertainment media scene scored some tickets to see Louis C.K. at the famous Chicago theater, and I've rarely had a better time. Drinking in the street after the show is highly recommended, but will likely land you in the paddy wagon.




4. Follow a famous chef. Chicago's food scene is incredible and getting better every day. See, e.g., molecular gastronomist Grant Achatz (of Alinea and the much-talked-about Next) and the regional Mexican cooking genius Rick Bayless (of Frontera Grill, Topolobampo).

My sources tell me that food trucks, long outlawed by Chicago backdoor politics, are due to return on the scene soon - my prediction is an explosion of excellent, cheap street food that will put New York's trendy trucks to shame.

Last weekend we had grilled tortas and caldos at Bayless' new street food joint, Xoco. Above, the hot "pepito" torta with braised shortribs, caramelized onions and pickled jalepenos; a seafood caldo; and decadent churros with Mexican spiced hot chocolate.



4. Stagger to a trendy brunch.  Like New York, some of Chicago's "hip" neighborhoods were recently industrial wastelands. One such neighborhood, the West Loop (which is still rather grimy and remote), has exploded with lofts and brunch spots à la Tribeca.

If you can stand a the long ride on the El train in what will undoubtedly be your hungover state - or better yet, get a ride! - try the wonderful, carnivorous Publican. It's a swanky gastropub with communal seating, standout charcuterie and bloody marys that come with beer chasers.

The menu rotates frequently, but my grilled mortadella sandwich was terrific, and I've heard rave reviews of everything from seared sweetbreads to squash and burrata  to the marrow plate.

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