Three perfect days in Chicago

On a flight home last weekend, a friend and I were leafing through a prosaic airline rag when we stumbled upon an article entitled "Three perfect days in Chicago".

Having just spent - exactly - three days in Chicago, we thumbed through to see how we had done.

The result? We win! Spending our student years in Chicago gave us the advantage of friends on the inside, not to mention a relatively nuanced understanding of that wonderful city.  Below is my list of things to do during a perfect (summer) weekend in Chicago.

1. See some baseball. Seriously. Even if you're not a fan, there is no friendlier,  more energetic place to spend a warm Friday afternoon than Wrigley Field. Drink watery beer and banter with the rabid Cubs fans, then head to the drunken, frat-tastic Wrigleyville neighborhood for post-game beers. It's shockingly fun.

2. Starve yourself, then eat pizza! While I may be drummed out of New York for saying this, there is nothing in the world like a 1,500-calorie slice of deep-dish from Lou Malnati's (don't forget to make a reservation!), or the Giordano's chain. The latter recently filed for bankruptcy, incidentally, so get it while you can.

3. Splurge on comedy. This has never been my entertainment of choice, but in Chicago, love of sketch and standup is infectious. A friend tapped into the city's entertainment media scene scored some tickets to see Louis C.K. at the famous Chicago theater, and I've rarely had a better time. Drinking in the street after the show is highly recommended, but will likely land you in the paddy wagon.

4. Follow a famous chef. Chicago's food scene is incredible and getting better every day. See, e.g., molecular gastronomist Grant Achatz (of Alinea and the much-talked-about Next) and the regional Mexican cooking genius Rick Bayless (of Frontera Grill, Topolobampo).

My sources tell me that food trucks, long outlawed by Chicago backdoor politics, are due to return on the scene soon - my prediction is an explosion of excellent, cheap street food that will put New York's trendy trucks to shame.

Last weekend we had grilled tortas and caldos at Bayless' new street food joint, Xoco. Above, the hot "pepito" torta with braised shortribs, caramelized onions and pickled jalepenos; a seafood caldo; and decadent churros with Mexican spiced hot chocolate.

4. Stagger to a trendy brunch.  Like New York, some of Chicago's "hip" neighborhoods were recently industrial wastelands. One such neighborhood, the West Loop (which is still rather grimy and remote), has exploded with lofts and brunch spots à la Tribeca.

If you can stand a the long ride on the El train in what will undoubtedly be your hungover state - or better yet, get a ride! - try the wonderful, carnivorous Publican. It's a swanky gastropub with communal seating, standout charcuterie and bloody marys that come with beer chasers.

The menu rotates frequently, but my grilled mortadella sandwich was terrific, and I've heard rave reviews of everything from seared sweetbreads to squash and burrata  to the marrow plate.

Colors!

This morning at the market.

Mustard greens

Mustard greens frisee

These awesome greens appeared in my first CSA shipment last week, presenting the first recipe challenge of the season. Should I eat them raw? Braise them into submission, like kale? And what flavor palette goes with mustard, of all things?

It turns out that this versatile, low-bitterness green can be eaten raw or lightly cooked (gently simmered with broth and sauteed onions, for example). Being the health food rabbit that I am, raw seemed the obvious way to go. Here are two go-to recipes for flavorful summer mustard side dishes:

Photo care of Sweet Beet

Recipe: "Green on Green" Salad with Pecorino Romano

A bright salad with Italian notes, adapted from The Sweet Beet (thanks, Beet!)

Mustard Greens
Kale (Red Russian, dark green, etc.) stems removed
Fresh grated Pecorino Romano
Lightly toasted pine nuts, pumpkin seeds or sesame seeds

Wash and dry both greens, then toss together with toasted seeds.
Drizzle dressing (see below) and toss again; top with salt, pepper and grated cheese.

Balsamic and Mustard Dressing

1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/2 cup olive oil
1 tsp Dijon mustard
1 tsp honey
1 tsp dried herbs, e.g. oregano, thyme
salt and pepper

Whisk vigorously until creamy.

Mayo-y. Mmm.

Recipe: Raw mustard greens with garlic mayonnaise

A luscious and tangy side from http://www.cookthink.com/

1/4 cup garlic mayonnaise (see below) or dijon-yogurt dressing

3/4 pound mustard greens, stemmed and chopped
freshly ground black pepper

Rinse and dry the mustard greens.

Slice away the stems and cut leaves into bite-sized pieces.

In a large bowl, toss the greens with some of the mayonnaise, adding a little at a time. (Leaves should be coated, but not drowned!)

Add freshly ground black pepper to taste.

Garlic Mayonnaise

2 egg yolks
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 small clove garlic, peeled
1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
1 cup olive oil
salt and pepper

Combine the egg yolks, mustard, garlic clove, cayenne and lemon juice in a food processor.
Start to process, adding the oil in a thin stream through the top spout.
Add water as needed to thin consistency.

Healthy Dijon-Yogurt Dressing

1 cup 2% Greek yogurt
3-4 tbs grainy or smooth dijon mustard (adjust to taste)
1 pinch very finely chopped garlic
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
juice of one lemon
salt and pepper

Combine all and whisk together by hand.
Add water or skim milk as needed to thin consistency.

Los Paisanos

Photo by Los Paisanos

In Carroll Gardens and Cobble Hill,  I love the remnants of old Italian Brooklyn.  Los Paisanos butchery and market on Smith Street is a mecca of this sort.  Its deli is out of control delicious (especially the capicola, hot or sweet, spiced or drunken), but the place is most exciting for its unique meats.  Dry aged beef of every imaginable cut, venison, huge slabs of pork shoulder, and hard-to-find poultry (think: poussin, partridge, fresh duck and capon).

Also try their aged cheeses (especially the Romano), fresh pastas and dried mushrooms like chantarelles and morels.

Seriously, just go to this place. 

Los Paisanos meat market, 162 Smith Street, Brooklyn. F or G train to Bergen Street.

Farewell, food pyramid

Behold "MyPlate," unveiled yesterday by Michelle Obama and her awesome arms. It replaces the ubiquitous Food Pyramid, of course, which has been perplexing Americans with its "Bread, Cereal Rice and Pasta" food group since 1992.

Good riddance, Wonder Bread.